Teek, I too recently picked up a Santana 22 which had been out of the water for an extended time. Having sailed quite a few different size boats as well as restored 4 from junk, let me say we may be able to help one another. Right off, it is most probable that your biggest problem will probably be a rusty keel. Mine is terrible and no solutions are easy. I would say that the 4HP motor is sufficient to handle your needs for moving the boat, but the big problem will be keeping your batteries charged so you might want to be looking at a motor with a charger big enough to keep your VHF and lights working, a little music is also nice. It helps tremendiously to change all of your lights to led's. The self draining cockpit is a straight thru situation. My boat had the 1 1/2 ribbed wire re-enforced hose, but I think a heavy duty auto radiator cooling hose would be better as foreign matter will hang up in ribbed hose. I think it is better to have the ability to push something the size of a water hose thru to clean it out. As far as pricing is concerned, I too have learned to do a lot of enet searching. Also do ebay and craigslist searches. My email is is tequilajimhart@yahoo.com and my phone is 801 897 6659. Let's get aquainted. Question for you.. do you have a fresh water tank that appears to be about 30 to 34 gallons? The tank I have seems to be in that range and I was wondering if it is a standard tank. For information I have a Santana 22 because it is the very best sailing boat I have ever sailed. I have owned 2 Pearson Tritons, 1 30' Pearson, a Balboa 26, and a Ranger 33, but I am more excited about the Santana than any of the others. I wouldn't sand thru the gel coat if I were you, it just runs costs up. What you are trying to do is come up with the slickest, smoothest surface to apply an expoxy coat to seal out water penetration into your hull. I'll do mine with ISO polyester resin with just enough hardner so that it is semi-set enough to get 3 coats on in one day. You can't let Poly resin dry out before the next coat or you end up with a surface wax coat to remove before the next coat. You get the best price on that resin at Home Depot. I'm in Salt Lake, my Ranger 33 is in La Paz BCS. I've had some health problems and my Ranger is for sale. But I'll probably be getting a 10 year import license on my Santana so that I can cruise the Sea of Cortez and the west coast of Mexico. I'm starting to feel like those doctors have given me a complete restoreation. If that comes to pass, I'll be putting in Guaymas. Maybe we can hook up.

:: I'm a 'new' Santana 22 owner. My boat is a pre-1972
:: model, has been on the hard since 1996. I live in
:: Arizona so I'll be sailing at some of the local lakes
:: but I'm also planning to take it to Mexico and
:: California (it came with a trailer). I have a few
:: questions that I would like some advice on, any tips
:: would be appreciated.
::
:: 1. Outboard - how much power do I need? 4 hp too small?
:: Is 10 hp too much? I'd like to be able to rely on it if
:: I'm in a pickle so I don't want anything too wimpy.
::
:: 2. The self draining cockpit, I'm assuming, drains down
:: into the through hulls right under them, is this
:: correct? Mine are there but no pipe connecting the two
:: and they are offset an inch or two. Any tips on
:: re-piping that? I would like to avoid sinking the boat.
::
:: 3. How do I know what my hull number is? There are no
:: numbers on the transom where they should be if the boat
:: was post 1972...
::
:: 4. What is the best, cheapest source for epoxy for
:: general repairs? Do I really need marine grade epoxy?
::
:: 5. I'm repainting the bottom, sanding all the way to
:: bare fiberglass. I will be using hard paint as the top
:: coat, since the boat is trailered and I won't be in the
:: water more than a week at a time maximum, with probably
:: a month between outings. How should I prep the bottom
:: for paint? Do I need an epoxy barrier layer? Seems like
:: a lot of people say better safe than sorry but others
:: have said with such little time in the water doing so
:: would be a waste. If no barrier coat is needed do I need
:: to prime the bare fiberglass after sanding?
::
:: Any recommendations appreciated, I'm quite budget
:: sensitive, but I know this will take some cash and some
:: time.